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Walking Above the Sea: the Sentiero delle Cipolliane, One of Salento’s Most Beautiful Hikes

White cliffs, prehistoric caves, dry-stone walls and an Adriatic stretching seemingly forever: discover the Sentiero delle Cipolliane, one of the most captivating coastal hikes in the Capo di Leuca.

VIAGGI | TRAVELS

Rebecca P. & Raffaele F.

8/18/20265 min read

Sentiero delle Cipolliane: Walking Along Salento’s Wildest Edge

Forget, for a moment, the endless stretches of golden sand, crowded parasols and the usual summer nightlife. Salento has another side to it too: a wild, authentic soul that reveals itself only to those willing to slow down and listen to the wind. Walking the Sentiero delle Cipolliane means immersing yourself in pale rock, windswept landscapes, shrubs bent low towards the ground and a sea so deep blue it almost looks unreal.

We are in the territory of Gagliano del Capo, within the Costa Otranto–Santa Maria di Leuca and Bosco di Tricase Regional Natural Park, along the stretch of coastline between the famous Ciolo and Marina di Novaglie. The official route follows an ancient country track for just over two kilometres and, despite its relatively short length, manages to pack in a remarkable variety of landscapes.

From Ponte del Ciolo towards Marina di Novaglie

One of the easiest access points for the hike from Ciolo to Novaglie is near the public car park by Ponte del Ciolo, along the SP358 road. It is hard to imagine a more dramatic starting point: the bridge spans the deep ravine carved into the rock, while the sea appears directly below, squeezed between almost vertical limestone cliffs.

From the car park, the trail heads north-north-east along the official PNR COL B12 route, which runs for 2,020 metres and ends on Via Amerigo Vespucci in Marina di Novaglie. The Park’s trail network gives an estimated walking time of around one hour, not including, of course, lengthy photography stops, detours or the return journey.

The appeal of the Cipolliane coastal trail does not lie in a single viewpoint waiting at the end, but in the landscape itself, which seems to change at every turn. At times the path runs openly along the cliff edge; elsewhere it narrows between rocks and vegetation. Terraces appear to hang above the Adriatic, while ancient pajare — traditional dry-stone rural shelters that bear a distant resemblance to Puglia’s better-known trulli — offer a glimpse into a Salento that existed long before the region became synonymous with summer holidays.

Another curious feature is the mantagnate, large stone walls once built to protect cultivated land from the strong sea winds. Mastic, myrtle, mock privet, tree spurge and prickly pears fill the gaps between the stonework, creating a landscape that at first glance may seem simple, almost austere.

It is precisely this contrast that makes hiking in the Capo di Leuca so distinctive: rugged nature and traces of human presence coexist here, without either ever quite overpowering the other.

The Grotte delle Cipolliane, Where the Journey Travels Back in Time

After roughly a kilometre and a half from Ciolo, you reach the Grotte delle Cipolliane, four cavities opening directly into the rock, shaped over thousands of years by the sea and the elements. They are the landmark that gives the entire route its name.

At this point, the journey becomes about much more than scenery. These karst caves preserve evidence of prehistoric human activity: archaeologists have uncovered fossils, engraved pebbles and remains of tools dating back to the Upper Palaeolithic, offering clues to an environment very different from the one we see today. The complex consists of several chambers carved into the cliff, with mineral deposits, ancient karst formations and marine fossils embedded in the rock.

Even the name appears to have its roots in the surrounding landscape. According to the Park’s documentation, it derives from Cipuddhàzzu — or Cipuddazza — the local dialect name for Drimia maritima, commonly known in English as sea squill.

A word of caution, however: reaching the caves themselves is not the same as simply continuing along the main trail. The detour follows route PNR COL B13, around 274 metres long, and descends a steep section of the cliff. The Park specifically advises visitors to proceed with great care. If the ground or weather conditions do not feel safe, the views from above are still more than worth the journey.

Beyond the caves, the trail continues towards Marina di Novaglie, following the shape of the coastline and offering sweeping views across the Adriatic. As you approach Novaglie, the path gradually descends until it reaches Via Amerigo Vespucci, close to the marina’s small harbour. The transition from the isolated, rocky landscape of the Cipolliane to the coastal village provides a natural ending to the route, allowing you to finish the hike right by the sea.

Practical Information

The main trail is classified as Hiking (E), so it should not be mistaken for an easy stroll along a seaside promenade. Exposed rock, uneven ground and several coastal sections require suitable footwear and at least some experience of walking on rough terrain. Handrails and a few benches can be found along parts of the route, but this remains a natural environment rather than a fully equipped walkway.

Before setting off, make sure you carry plenty of water, sun protection, a hat and footwear with a good grip. In summer, the early morning or late afternoon are by far the best times to walk the trail — not only because of the heat, but also because the low light transforms the pale stone and gives the sea an almost metallic glow. Spring and early autumn, meanwhile, are ideal for enjoying the route at a slower, more relaxed pace.

You should also factor in the return journey. The distance of just over two kilometres refers only to the Ciolo–Novaglie section: if you walk back along the same trail, the total distance doubles, before adding any optional detours.

Join Us on the Next Adventure!

The Sentiero delle Cipolliane is living proof that Salento has far more to offer than its usual clichés.

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